Assamese Jewellery Earns GI Tag, ASTEC Director Says 'Only Handmade Jewellery Qualifies'

In a landmark achievement for Assam, the Registrar of Geographical Indications has officially granted Assamese jewellery the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, an acknowledgement that not only conserves its 1,000-year-old inheritance but also opens up new paths in national and international marketplaces.

Business North East (BNE) spoke to Jaideep Baruah, Director of the Assam Science Technology and Environment Council (ASTEC), who played a key role in comprehending the implications of this GI tagging and the road fast.

Here are the excerpts from the interview:

BNE: Please tell us about the GI tagging of Assamese jewellery. What are the next steps?

Jaideep Baruah: Our traditional jewellery receiving the Geographical Indication (GI) tag from the Registrar of Geographical Indications is a moment of pride for Assam. This acknowledgement adds value to our inheritance and offers protection against imitation. Assamese jewellery has a rich history dating back over 1,000 years and is practised in various parts of the state.

The entire inventiveness began with the 2018-19 budget statement by the then Finance Minister and current Chief Minister, Himanta Biswa Sarma, who highlighted preserving Assamese cultural inheritance. Following this, the Department of Industries assigned ASTEC the task of easing GI registering for six traditional items, Assamese jewellery being one of them.

With technical support from the Patent Information Centre (PIC) at ASTEC, the GI tag has been awarded. The registered proprietor of the GI tag is the Gems and Jewellery Promotion Council of Assam, a society under the Industries and Commerce Department. The jewellery has been classified into three categories based on regional differences and processes — Type A, Type B, and Type C — representing styles from Jorhat, Rongthuli (Nagaon), and Barpeta.

This credit is a noteworthy landmark and will greatly provide an advantage to the artists and craftsmen involved in the Assamese jewellery industry by protecting their intellectual property and designs while also enhancing market visibility.

BNE: How will this benefit artisans and craftsmen? What steps should they take now?

Jaideep Baruah: Firstly, the GI tag protects the unique design and traditional preparation techniques. No one outside the chosen geographical areas can claim their products as Assamese jewellery or use this nomenclature. A specific map has been submitted with the application to mark the authentic regions.

From now on, only those producers who receive a No Objection Certificate (NOC) from the proprietor — the Gems and Jewellery Promotion Council — can apply to the GI Registry to use the GI tag. Once accepted, they can use the GI logo, which promises authenticity and adds momentous value to the product, particularly in global markets where genuine, traditional items are in high call.

BNE: How will this help consumers?

Jaideep Baruah: As a consumer, everyone wants an authentic product. The GI tag acts as a quality assurance. Once the GI logo is visible on a product, it removes the need for separate testing or verification. As many consumers are willing to pay more for genuine items, this tag delivers that trust and pledge.

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BNE: There was some delay in the GI application process. What caused it?

Jaideep Baruah: Yes, there was a delay, primarily because Assamese jewellery is practised in three distinct regions — Barpeta, Jorhat, and Nagaon. We had to bring all stakeholders on board. Multiple hearings, brainstorming sessions, and rounds of discussions were held with the artisans from all three regions. Only after obtaining their full consent, we submitted the final application. This inclusive process took longer than GI applications.

BNE: Do you think Assamese jewellery will now find a place in export markets?

Jaideep Baruah: Absolutely. We have already seen success with Muga silk, Assam’s first GI-tagged product. With over 500 registered users, Muga Silk has gained a robust foothold in international markets. Similarly, Assamese jewellery can also explore export opportunities and gain global respect now being protected and verified.

BNE: NEHHDC has recently launched a Centre for Innovation and Incubation. Will this encourage more people to take up jewellery making as a profession?

Jaideep Baruah: Yes, this initiative will certainly help. While Assamese jewellery is a traditional craft, training and skilling are essential for newcomers. It’s important to note that only handmade jewellery qualifies for the GI tag. Machine-made or mass-produced items are not eligible. Any new entrant, including startups, must obtain an NOC from the traditional user organizations and the proprietary body to be recognized under the GI tag framework.

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BNE: How does handmade Assamese jewellery differ from commercial brands like Tanishq or others?

Jaideep Baruah: Traditional Assamese jewellery carries a distinct aesthetic that many people value. While some consumers prefer polished, sophisticated designs from brands like Tanishq, there is a growing market for authentic, handcrafted pieces — and that’s where our heritage jewellery stands out.

BNE: What are your plans following this GI tagging?

Jaideep Baruah: Our immediate focus is to increase the number of registered users. We already have a list of 400 potential artisans who qualify. The process to register each user takes around 6–8 months. The Gems and Jewellery Promotion Council will soon initiate this process, ensuring wider adoption and use of the GI tag across the state.