30 women weavers trained, and 60 others to be trained in the coming months
Her goal is to create a sustainable marketplace for handloom products, ensuring traditional heritage continues to thrive with a modern touch
Guwahati: Meghali Das, a National Handloom Awardee in Weaving and visionary entrepreneur from Assam, has transformed her passion for weaving into a thriving business. Beginning with just two xaals and a modest investment of ₹1 lakh, Das now leads a successful boutique, working with over 50 weavers to bring the rich heritage of Assamese textiles to the global stage.
Das is now on the frontlines of state’s handloom revival. During the interview with Business North East, she has highlighted the importance of empowering local weavers through skill development and the critical role of natural materials like Muga and Eri in promoting sustainable fashion.
Here are the excerpts:
BNE: Meghali, could you share more about how you started and scaled your business?
Meghali Das: My journey into weaving is deeply rooted in my childhood, where I spent countless hours observing my mother and aunts engaged in the weaving process. The rhythm of the loom and the intricate patterns they created fascinated me. When I decided to turn this passion into a business, I started with just two xaals (Assamese handloom) and a modest investment of ₹1 lakh. It was a challenging start, focusing primarily on cotton thread garments. However, with relentless effort and a clear vision, I was able to grow the business. Today, we have over 25 xaals and 50 skilled weavers working with us, producing a wide range of handwoven products. This growth has been a result of our dedication to quality and our commitment to bringing traditional Assamese weaves to a broader market.
BNE: Your dedication is evident. I believe you've showcased your work on different avenues. How has this exposure impacted your business and the perception of Assamese weaves globally??
Meghali Das: Showcasing our work internationally has been a significant turning point for us. Through the support of the Weaving Service Centre (WSC) in Guwahati, we’ve participated in exhibitions across various cities, including international platforms in Australia and major cities in India like Delhi. The response to our work, especially our Muga silk creations, has been overwhelmingly positive. Muga silk, with its rich golden hue and luxurious texture, has always been a symbol of Assam’s rich textile heritage. Seeing how much it was appreciated on a global stage reinforced my belief in the uniqueness and value of our traditional crafts.
This international exposure not only opened new markets for us but also gave me a deeper understanding of the global demand for authentic, high-quality handwoven textiles. It made me realize that while our traditional techniques are invaluable, there’s also a need to innovate and adapt to the preferences of a global audience. This has led to a more diverse range of products that blend traditional motifs with modern designs, making them appealing to both domestic and international markets. It’s crucial for us to preserve our heritage while also embracing the opportunities that come with globalization.
BNE: Preserving culture while driving economic growth is crucial. How have government initiatives supported your efforts in this industry?
Meghali Das: Government initiatives have been pivotal in our journey, especially in a sector like weaving, which is deeply rooted in tradition but also needs modern support systems to thrive. We’ve been fortunate to collaborate closely with government departments like the National Small Industries Corporation (NSIC), District Industries Centre (DIC), and the Weaving Service Centre (WSC). These collaborations have provided us with both financial and technical support, which has been crucial for our growth.
One of the most significant developments has been our association with the WSC, through which we formed a Farmer Producer Company (FPC). This initiative directly benefits local weavers by offering skill upgradation programs and providing them with the necessary resources to start their own weaving ventures. Under this FPC, 20-30 weavers receive training in advanced weaving techniques and are supplied with xaals by the government, enabling them to produce high-quality textiles. These programs are essential, as they empower weavers, especially women, by providing them with the tools and knowledge to succeed in a competitive market.
Moreover, there are several government schemes like the Prime Minister’s Employment Generation Programme (PMEGP) that offer loans to weavers, making it easier for them to secure the funds needed to expand their operations. Despite not having formal training in business management, I’ve spent years consulting with various government departments to understand these schemes and leverage them for the growth of our business. This proactive approach has allowed us to access larger marketplaces and scale our operations while staying true to our roots.
BNE: It’s impressive how you’ve leveraged these resources. Given your extensive experience, what challenges have you faced in the market?
Meghali Das: The weaving industry, like any other traditional craft, comes with its set of challenges, and one of the most persistent issues we’ve faced is the shortage of fine threads, which are the lifeblood of our craft. Over the years, the price of threads has steadily increased, making it difficult to maintain consistent production levels without significantly increasing costs. This has been a major concern for us, as it directly impacts our ability to deliver high-quality products at competitive prices.
However, the government has been proactive in addressing these challenges. They’ve allowed us to procure threads through organizations like the North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC), where we receive a 15 percent subsidy. This support has been instrumental in helping us manage costs and continue producing the high-quality, handwoven textiles that our customers have come to expect. Despite these challenges, I believe that the hard work and dedication that go into creating each product add immense value, and this is something that resonates with our customers.
Another significant challenge has been adapting to the changing market dynamics. While there is a growing appreciation for traditional designs and motifs, today’s market also demands modern interpretations of these classics. To address this, we’ve embraced digitization and technology, which have allowed us to preserve traditional motifs while also adapting them to contemporary trends. For example, we’ve started incorporating traditional Assamese motifs into more modern garments and home furnishings, which have been well-received by both domestic and international customers. This ability to innovate while staying true to our roots has been key to our success in a rapidly evolving market.
BNE: Adapting to market trends while preserving tradition is certainly a fine balance. How do you see the role of natural dyes and traditional materials like Muga and Eri evolving in both domestic and international markets?
Meghali Das: Natural dyes and traditional materials like Muga and Eri have always been at the heart of Assamese weaving, and they continue to hold a special place in both domestic and international markets. The global shift towards sustainable and eco-friendly products has further increased the demand for these materials. Muga silk, with its unique golden sheen, is often referred to as the “golden fiber” of Assam and is highly valued for its durability and natural luster. Similarly, Eri silk, also known as the “fabric of peace” because it’s produced without killing the silkworm, is prized for its softness and warmth.
In recent years, there has been a growing awareness of the environmental impact of synthetic dyes, which has led to a resurgence in the popularity of natural dyes. These dyes are not only eco-friendly but also biodegradable, which makes them highly appealing in today’s environmentally conscious market. We’ve been working extensively with natural dyes, especially with Muga and Eri silk, to create products that are not only beautiful but also sustainable. These materials have a timeless appeal, and when combined with natural dyes, they create textiles that are not only eco-friendly but also rich in cultural heritage.
We’ve tailored our products to meet the demands of different markets. For instance, while traditional Assamese garments like Mekhela Sador remain popular in the domestic market, we’ve also started exploring new applications for Muga and Eri, such as in home furnishings, accessories, and modern apparel. These products have been well-received, especially in international markets where there is a growing demand for sustainable, ethically-produced textiles. By giving these traditional materials a contemporary touch, we can expand their appeal and ensure they remain relevant in a rapidly changing global market.
BNE: It’s fascinating to hear how you’re innovating within traditional frameworks. What are your future plans for expanding your business and further supporting the weaver community?
Meghali Das: Our focus for the future is twofold: expanding our business and further empowering the weaver community. We’ve already made significant strides in training local women through our skill upgradation programs. So far, we’ve trained 30 women, and our plan is to extend this training to another 60 women in the coming months. These programs are designed to equip weavers with the skills they need to produce high-quality textiles and run their own small-scale weaving operations.
BNE: How much it takes up to set up a xaal in a household?
Meghali Das: Setting up a xaal, which requires an investment of ₹50,000 to ₹60,000, including a Jacquard machine, is essential for these weavers to start their own ventures. We’re committed to providing them with the necessary resources and training to succeed.
BNE: Could you tell the readers about your boutique’s journey so far?
Meghali Das: In addition to our training programs, we’re also focusing on expanding our market reach. Our boutique, which started from home 10 years ago, has grown significantly, and we now receive numerous orders daily. Our bridal sets and customized garments are particularly in high demand. We use purely natural fibers, such as pure cotton, Kesa Paat blend, Nooni Paat blend, and various types of silk, to create products that are both luxurious and sustainable. For example, our pure silk products start at ₹10,000, while Muga silk can go up to ₹70,000. These products are highly valued by our customers, who appreciate the craftsmanship and quality that go into each piece.
BNE: What is your plan ahead?
Meghali Das: Looking ahead, our goal is to create a sustainable marketplace for our products, ensuring that our traditional heritage continues to thrive with a modern touch. We’re also exploring new markets and opportunities to expand our product range, including collaborations with designers and brands that share our commitment to sustainability and ethical production. By continuing to innovate and support our weaver community, we hope to play a significant role in preserving and promoting the rich textile heritage of Assam for future generations.
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