Guwahati: Amidst the difficulties affecting the tea industry in Assam, an ambitious young entrepreneur named Syeda Husna Iram ul Aowal, a tea taster and a researcher from Assam, is developing a game-changing idea. She hopes to change how people worldwide view Assam tea by launching her artisanal tea company, Ojantrik, and tackling the pressing issues related to integrity, sustainability, and quality in the tea industry.
Due to fragmented production procedures and deteriorating quality, Assam, the largest tea-producing area in the world, has suffered a decline in its reputation in recent years. Unorganized small tea producers in Assam account for over 52% of the tea production, resulting in an inconsistent supply chain. Syeda Husna Iram ul Aowal, who believes this calls for an urgent overhaul, told Pankhi Sarma of Business North East (BNE), “If poor practices continue, Assam’s global reputation for tea will diminish. Twenty years from now, consumers might look elsewhere for quality tea.”
Here are the excerpts from the Q&A interview:
BNE: Could you share your journey with tea and what inspired you to turn this passion into a business venture?
Syeda Husna Iram: A significant aspect of my tea journey is my family legacy, especially my grandfather, who taught me the craft of making tea. I grew up seeing him how to pluck tea leaves. These experiences created a deep bond with tea and a desire to preserve the legacy passed down to me by my grandfather and father, inspiring me to start Ojantrik, which promotes tea as an artisanal craft.
Through Ojantrik, I aim to introduce people to handcrafted teas, showcasing the richness and diversity of tea beyond conventional perceptions, such as roadside cutting chai. A significant aspect of Ojantrik is highlighting the contributions of tea workers, whose labour often goes unrecognized. Their work is physically demanding, yet their efforts are vital to the tea industry.
BNE: What distinguishes Ojantrik in the tea market?
Syeda Husna Iram: Ojantrik focuses on the craftsmanship of tea-making and aims to create an immersive experience for consumers. Unlike commercial teas emphasizing convenience, Ojantrik emphasizes a hands-on approach to selecting, pairing, and brewing tea. Green tea, for instance, needs water, which is just the right temperature to brew to maintain its delicate aromas. Redefining tea as a luxury product deserving of appreciation is our goal. Our goal is to promote a greater understanding of tea and its roots by showcasing the journey of tea - from the pluckers to the cup.
BNE: What role do you believe corporations and the government should have in tackling issues like pay and working conditions?
Syeda Husna Iram: I believe the government is not solely to blame. We individuals and businesses have a great deal of responsibility. The tea industry is predominantly business-driven. Most tea gardens are under private management, and a sizable amount of production comes from disorganized small tea producers. Tea workers often face precarious conditions, with temporary workers lacking job security and permanent workers sometimes not receiving the benefits they are entitled to. Small tea growers struggle with rising wages and stagnant earnings from leaf sales. Addressing these issues requires a collective effort. While the government can set minimum wages and regulate the sector, businesses must adopt sustainable practices that benefit all stakeholders.
There is a pervasive sense of hopelessness at every level—pluckers, small growers, even owners of large estates and tea tasters.
BNE: How can you tackle these challenges, and how does Ojantrik contribute to this transformation?
Syeda Husna Iram: Entrepreneurship and sustainable business practices are key to creating lasting solutions. NGO-led initiatives have limited impact due to their dependency on grants. So, we need business models that ensure fair compensation and uphold the quality of Assam tea. The problem is Assam tea quality has declined due to poor practices. For example - selling of substandard leaves to factories. If this continues, the global reputation of Assam tea will fade. Twenty years from now, people might look elsewhere - Darjeeling or South India - for quality tea.
Ojantrik will operate on a cooperative model where small tea growers can pool their resources, control the production process, control the entire supply chain and maintain quality. This approach will empower growers and ensure they receive fair prices. But, the challenge lies in cooperative system management. Tea farmers are not experts in business management, and that is where organizations like Ojantrik come in. We help manage their enterprise and empower farmers.
BNE: Assam tea quality has faced criticism despite rising exports. What are the reasons behind this, and how can it be addressed?
Syeda Husna Iram: This is a grave issue that needs urgent attention. Over 52 per cent of tea produced in Assam comes from small tea growers, and the sector is largely unorganized. The tea leaves are often harvested in small quantities, which cannot be processed effectively in factories. These leaves are mixed with those from other gardens, leading to quality inconsistency. Quality concerns arise when harvesting is not done at the ideal time. The fine leaf count is essential for high-quality drops. Small tea growers often do not have the resources to manage this and rely on pluckers to work longer hours, which results in lower-quality leaves. Moreover, the lack of knowledge about proper farming practices and the safe use of pesticides further affects quality. It is difficult to break this cycle, but we need to educate growers, create a system that encourages high-quality tea production and improve the supply chain to achieve this.
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BNE: We have seen some challenges with tea tourism in Assam, especially post-COVID. How do you think Ojantrik can contribute to this?
Syeda Husna Iram: Tea tourism is a great opportunity. Many tea resorts focus on the infrastructure and forget that the experience should be rooted in tea. People should not just come for the fancy environment. They should come for the love of tea. At Ojantrik, we plan to build a community of tea lovers, not just tourists. We aim to spread awareness about Assam tea and inspire enthusiasm for it. One cannot genuinely enjoy Assam tea without an interest in its history or production.
BNE: As you continue to build this vision, how much investment would be required to start such an initiative in the tea business?
Syeda Husna Iram: It depends on the scale of the business. You may begin a small-scale business by purchasing tea in bulk and selling it straight for as low as Rs 50,000. However, the cost might reach crores if you wish to establish a fully functional tea plant with equipment and infrastructure. The time and effort required to learn about tea, comprehend the intricacies of the market, and then successfully run the business provide more of a challenge than just the financial one. Starting a tea business is not easy. But, with the right knowledge and resources, it could be lucrative.
BNE: As a young tea enthusiast, how do you plan to promote Assam’s tea culture
Syeda Husna Iram: As a tea taster, I believe tea ceremonies are a wonderful way to bring people closer to the real essence of Assam tea. Even in Assam, many people have never had the chance to experience a traditional tea ceremony, and this has helped people appreciate the quality of the tea and connect to the culture behind it at the same time. I am working towards hosting more tea-tasting events that are less about education and more about the experience. The focus should be on enjoying tea in its purest form.
BNE: So, when can people buy Ojantrik’s products in the market?
Syeda Husna Iram: Good things take time, and I am hoping to launch around Bihu, the Assamese New Year. We are working on compliance and finalizing the processes. But once we are ready, we will be offering the market a quality product.