Guwahati: “NEHHDC will adopt a two-fold approach—identifying problems through analysis and direct feedback from artisans—to resolve challenges they face in the market. Empowering grassroots artisans could face challenges from large jewellery showrooms, but the aim is to ensure fair compensation for village-level artisans,” said Sriparna Baruah, NEHHDC Advisor during the MoU signing of North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation Limited (NEHHDC) and Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) to launch the Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ), Guwahati campus, which will offer PM Vishwakarma programs.
Baruah further said during the interview with Business North East, NEHHDC’s push to introduce technology in jewellery making, while maintaining traditional craftsmanship, will help the region tap into the lucrative export market.
Moreover, the collaboration includes plans for setting up a laser stamping center for jewellery once Assamese jewellery gets a GI tag, ensuring authenticity and market regulation. With access to 3D printing and CAD centers, the MoU will help entrepreneurs and artisans develop and innovate new jewellery designs to keep up with global trends, Baruah shared with Business North East.
Here are the excerpts from the interview:
Business North East: Could you please share about the special features involved in the MoU between NEHHDC and IIGJ?
Sriparna Baruah: We have signed an MoU with the Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery and the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council today. The background is that these are the two organizations — the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council as a Government of India entity and the Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery, which has expertise in the jewellery and gems sector. Now, from NEHHDC, we have started this incubation center on jewellery and handicraft making. With the technical expertise provided by this MoU, we will be taking many initiatives in the gems and jewellery sector. Initially, we will start with the PM Vishwakarma program, which focuses on jewellers — a key focus for the Prime Minister. Though the program was launched, nothing substantial has happened in the jewellery sector so far. For the first time, we will begin with Guwahati and then move to other parts of Assam, including Nagaon, Barpeta, Jorhat, and Silchar. Eventually, we will expand to other regions.
Business North East: How will this initiative benefit the artisans? What are the specific programs you will undertake?
Sriparna Baruah: The jewellery sector is one of the largest employment-generating sectors. However, apart from places like Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh, Jaipur, Gujarat, etc., we don’t have many large-scale entrepreneurs from this region. Yet, jewellery, especially Assamese jewellery, is gaining immense popularity. However, the status of local jewellers remains low. Many of the so-called ‘Assamese jewellery’ pieces are being manufactured elsewhere and brought here under that name. We aim to regulate this by facilitating a Geographical Indication (GI) for Assamese jewellery. Additionally, a body will be established to monitor and stamp jewellery, which will help create more employment opportunities in the jewellery sector. Furthermore, we have a gemstone cutting and polishing facility. Our expertise will lie in producing high-quality designs that are continuously evolving. These are some of the key areas where the expertise from these two organizations will play a crucial role.
Business North East: Apart from skill upgradation, what are the other components of this MoU? Will there be lab testing centers?
Sriparna Baruah: Yes, we discussed the idea of setting up a laser stamping center for jewellery once we receive the GI for Assamese jewellery. This is one of the ideas we are exploring. In addition, there will be a focus on design improvements, as we already have our own 3D printer and CAD (Computer-Aided Design) center. Entrepreneurs will be able to come in, develop their own jewellery designs, and then launch their businesses.
Business North East: In your opinion, where does our region stand in the jewellery segment? How do you see it evolving?
Sriparna Baruah: To evolve, the artisans need to recognize the vast opportunities available, particularly in the export market. Currently, nothing is being exported from here. The export market is huge. If you visit the JPO (Jewellery Promotional Organization), you will find a Special Export Zone, and we may eventually establish one here in collaboration with GJEPC (Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council). The process of creating prime generation will begin as we enter the export market, which involves dealing in large volumes. Our artisans still rely on traditional tools and methods. We need to introduce some technology to enhance productivity while maintaining the handcrafting element. This combination will allow us to scale up production, reach larger markets, and ultimately improve capabilities. These will be some of our future initiatives.
Business North East: Have any funds been allocated for this initiative?
Sriparna Baruah: Regarding the MoU, no specific funds have been allocated. However, the PM Vishwakarma program and other skill development programs will be sponsored by the government. We will initially run government-sponsored programs, and eventually, IIGJ (Indian Institute of Gems and Jewelry) plans to offer short-term courses. Many students from the Northeast go to Jaipur and Mumbai for such courses, but they need not go there anymore. IIGJ is also considering starting courses here, establishing a satellite center.
Business North East: What is your next step after signing the MoU? What’s your immediate plan?
Sriparna Baruah: Our first step will be to start the PM Vishwakarma program next week itself. Following that, our team will be traveling to various places, including Nagaon and Rangthali cluster, to identify the pain points. We work in two ways — identifying the problems and understanding them directly from the artisans. We aim to learn what challenges they face so we can address them effectively.
Business North East: What challenges do you foresee after this initiative?
Sriparna Baruah: A major challenge could arise from the established showrooms. They may not be too comfortable with us empowering artisans at the grassroots level. It is possible for a village-level artisan to start exporting and reaching national markets from here. For example, people in Nagaon are already manufacturing jewellery but aren’t receiving the right prices. Meanwhile, large showrooms are profiting by simply bringing these products to their stores. It’s a matter of market awareness and empowerment. The artisans who do the actual work often don’t receive fair compensation. Our aim is to empower these artisans at the grassroots level to ensure they get the right price for their work.
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